Ban Gioc Waterfall

Ban Gioc – Detian Falls or Ban Gioc falls is a collective name for two waterfalls on the Quây Sơn River, which straddle the international border between China and Vietnam; more specifically located between the Karst hills of Daxin County, Guangxi, and Trùng Khánh District, Cao Bằng Province.

Although rarely spoken, Ban Gioc Waterfall in Vietnam is one of Southeast Asia’s most awe-inspiring natural sights. This mammoth waterfall is a whopping 30 metres high and spans 300 metres across, making it the widest waterfall in the country!

Whilst you would expect a sight this impressive to be overrun by tourists, that is surprisingly not the case. Although domestic visitors from both Vietnam and China are regular guests to Ban Gioc Falls, international travellers very rarely get this far off the beaten track… However, slowly but surely, intrepid backpackers (often on two wheels!) are starting to add the falls to their Vietnam Itinerary. 

A road running along the top of the falls leads to a stone marker that demarcates the border between China and Vietnam in French and Chinese. Modern disputes arose as there are discrepancies as to the correlating legal documents on border demarcation and the placement of markers between the French and Qing administrations in the 19th century.

Disputes regarding the border demarcation at this location were settled in 1999 Viet Nam-China Treaty on Land Borderline. Additional talks were held as late as 2009 to clarify the treaty. However, there are controversies regarding the border demarcation around the Falls. One faction holds that the entirety of these falls belongs to Vietnam, and that the stone tablet had been moved there some time during or after the brief Sino-Vietnamese war of 1979.

The waterfall has multiple terraces, which only serves to make it more visually impressive. The surrounding scenery contributes to its wow factor too! Karst peaks and verdant valleys dot the area, making Ban Gioc Waterfall the perfect postcard scene. 

The waterfall receives visitors all year round and is worth visiting in any season (it never dries up!). However, it is commonly suggested that September to October is the absolute best time to visit.

Visitors who head to the waterfall from June to August need to be aware that heavy downpours can cause the different tiers of the waterfall to merge. As a result, the spray is more fierce which can make it harder to take photos of the waterfall without getting both yourself and your equipment soaking wet! 

Ban Gioc is generally quiet to visit throughout the week but travellers are advised to avoid the weekends and public holidays when local visitors flood the scene! Lunchtime is the best time of day to visit the falls as the dam upstream is usually open. This allows full flow of the water which makes the falls appear fuller and even more impressive. 

The waterfalls increase the quality of life for people who live within the sound of the falls. A road running along the top of the falls leads to a stone marker that demarcates the border between China and Vietnam in French and Chinese. 20th century disputes could not be resolved where inaccuracies in documents, maps and descriptions that were made in the 19th century became difficult to universally comprehend. The disappearance or inaccurate replacement of markers and landmarks from time to time, and the varied patterns of transportation, settlement and land use from generation to generation, and the successive administrative differences throughout periods of war and strife led to both Vietnam and China understanding that exactly defining the border would increase prosperity in the long term.

There are various ways to visit Ban Gioc Falls. Which one is best for you will depend on how many days you have to dedicate to the trip, your budget, and your style of travel.

Group tours to Ban Gioc Waterfall can be arranged from nearby Cao Bang or Hanoi through hostels and travel agencies. This is a great option if you are looking to meet fellow travellers and explore some of the amazing surrounding countryside in this area at the same time. If you like to plan, it’s also possible to book group tours online in advance.

The Chinese side of the falls is often much busier than the Vietnamese side so it is usually possible to get good photos if you are visiting from the latter. For a fantastic view of the falls, head to the south side of the road where you can climb up to the Buddhist temple, Phat Tich Truc Lam Ban Gioc Pagoda. If you can, definitely head here for sunset over the falls. 

On the Chinese side of the falls, there is a viewing platform, however, nothing has been constructed on the Vietnamese side. It is possible to climb up the sides of the waterfall to get a better view but this is not something we recommend. The steep path is slippery and there is a guard stationed there to prevent access. Even if you can bribe your way through, there are no handrails and only roots to hang onto. It is definitely a dangerous undertaking.

Plenty of vendors work close to Ban Gioc Waterfall, selling their wares to tourists. As well as the area featuring several food stalls, it is also possible to rent traditional costumes for photo opportunities and horses to explore the area on! There is a small picnic area where you can eat but to keep this place beautiful, always take your rubbish back with you.

If you are visiting the falls independently or as part of a motorbike trip, you will likely need a place to stay for a night or two in the nearby town of Cao Bang which has some decent accommodation options.